Alignment and Weight System

Technical discussion, questions, answers and information
David Langston
Posts: 40
Joined: Sat Jul 27, 2013 7:28 am
Location: United States, North Carolina, North Carolina

Alignment and Weight System

Postby David Langston » Thu Oct 10, 2013 8:55 pm

Looking to get the needed alignment and weight stuff over the winter. Has anyone had any experience with the Sherline Alignment System? It appears to have everything to perform all the needed tasks.


Richard Schmidt
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:36 pm
Location: United States, Minnesota, Plymouth

Sherline Alignment and Weight System

Postby Richard Schmidt » Sat Oct 12, 2013 3:26 pm


The linear scales are marked at what would be the wheel rim positions of various size wheels from 13" through 17" diameters. To use the scales, measure from the "zero" position (back side of the extension) on the scale that represents your wheel size."

This will be a problem for our 10 inch wheels.

You will still need to buy an angle measuring device to set camber. Apparently this system does not provide a means to measure caster.

The small ball bearings used to allow lateral movement will not work on dirt. If at the track and you are pitted in a gravel or sod area, you will need to bring some wood or steel panels to put under the ball bearings.

I see item 12 1 1/2-13 x 2 Ht. Adjust. Screw on the EXPLODED VIEW AND PARTS LISTING is only 2 inches long. If you are on a uneven surface, you will still need to do some rough leveling.

SYSTEM 1 . . . . . $1200.00
The SHERLINE Alignment System Includes...

4 Sherline alignment units with rollers and sight glass (Attach to machined wheel plates--see options)
4 hydraulic wheel weight gauges (your choice of 0-400, 0-600 or 0-800 pound scale range)
1 water leveling system including fittings, flexible tubing and standpipe unit (You supply a 10' length of 1" PVC pipe, available at any hardware store)
1 moveable leveling unit for checking wing or ride heights at specific locations
150 yd. roll of 50# test Monofilament leveling line

The car length and width assembled PVC pipe system would be unwieldy to take to the track.
Also you will need to machine your wheel plates. Cost will sky-rocket.

My suggestion is to buy four bathroom scales, four jack stands and some string. The Sherline system doesn't do anything that you can't do with these 8 inexpensive items and some pieces of wood


Chuck McAbee
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Location: United States, Maryland, Sykesville

Postby Chuck McAbee » Sat Oct 12, 2013 4:54 pm

These are not F1 or Indy cars that need to be set up within a fraction of a mm.

Cheap bathroom scales and string do wonders!
Never too old to have a happy childhood!

Site Admin
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Postby jtc161 » Sat Oct 12, 2013 5:50 pm

Or look around on the various forums and scoop up a real set of scales. I got a set of rebco's on the cheap, very useful to have. You can set alignment with a toe stick. Camber and caster can be done with a $30 electric angle finder from craftsman.
1997 RD

David Langston
Posts: 40
Joined: Sat Jul 27, 2013 7:28 am
Location: United States, North Carolina, North Carolina

Postby David Langston » Sat Oct 12, 2013 6:25 pm

Using bathroom scales and string would definitely be much cheaper. I just got the Tune to Win book, I guess I need to read it and apply the principles.

I will keep my eyes open over the winter for some cheap digital scales, maybe I will get lucky.

I appreciate all the information and advice.


Chris Ross
Posts: 286
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 3:20 pm

Postby Chris Ross » Sun Oct 13, 2013 2:06 pm

I slowly built and acquired all my setup bits and pieces. I found a used set of scales on Racing If you aren't in a hurry, just keep checking around and you can pick up a decent used set for $600 or less. Next is a set of levelers. Might take a while, but keep watching for a used set. In the mean time you can use thin commercial floor tiles to level each scale.

Get a laser line level at your local hardware store and a high quality small level either digital or bubble. Use the small level to level each scale in both directions. Then use the laser line level and a tape measure to raise and lower the scales so they are all on the same plane. Instead of a tape measure I had my local machine shop scribe a line 1/2" up on a a set of 1-2-3 blocks. Quicker than a tape measure. Can't remember where I got the blocks, but they aren't expensive. To truly do a setup right you need the scales leveled within at least a 1/16" of an inch if not better.


I built a set of roll offs out of some plywood and 2x4's cheap.

Next is to build a string line bar set for your car. I got a friend who could weld and bought some 1" square steel tubing. Ran a piece across the top of the front bulkhead and held it in place with a c-clamp. Then drilled a hole through the tubing and into the front bulkhead the exact diameter of a pair of old AN bolt shanks. Then stuck the bolts down through the holes and tacked the bolts into place. Now I can place the bar on the front of the car in the exact same position every time and secure it with the c-clamp. Then we welded a short vertical leg onto each end. We built a similar structure for the back, but it clamps onto the frame of the car using a couple of u-bolts. Then we pull a piece of fishing line down either side of the car. I can have the string line on the car and ready to set the alignment in about 10 minutes or so.

The last piece was the camber/toe plate. I bought mine from MK Technologies. It will do 10" wheels. You will need a digital level to use it for camber, but that same digital level can be used in the first step of setting up the car. ... _board.htm

I know some say these cars aren't very sensitive to setup, but all I know is I am meticulous about the setup of my car. Everytime I go out I know the feel of my car is exactly what I expect and if the car starts misbehaving I know it is either issues with the track (oil or similar on the track) or an issue with my tires getting worn out. I have listened to other F500/600 drivers at the track complaining about an ill handling car and they are the ones that either don't have the equipment, don't spend the time to set it up correctly, don't have the time to do it, or some combination of the above. Ask Clint about my car. He has driven it on a few occasions and each time he said it is very easy to drive with predictable well balanced handling every time.

David Langston
Posts: 40
Joined: Sat Jul 27, 2013 7:28 am
Location: United States, North Carolina, North Carolina

Postby David Langston » Wed Oct 16, 2013 8:07 am

[quote="Chris Ross"]I slowly built and acquired all my setup bits and pieces. I found a used set of scales on Racing


I have time but, I was not aware of I will keep my eyes open for some scales. I believe I can get a good system from all the suggestions.

Thanks for the info,

Cory McLeod
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 11:10 pm

Postby Cory McLeod » Wed Oct 16, 2013 10:54 am

Here is a piture of the camber/caster gauge and toe gauge that I use - very simple and inexpensive. The toe gauge is still available from Racer Parts Wholesale, but the camber/caster gauge they are selling now is different, and won't work on a 10" wheel. Since I just took this picture from their web site today, if I needed to replace my camber/caster gauge, I would call them and see if they have any left of the type shown in this picture. Someone else may also sell them.


F500 - Can't Get Enough of the 2-Cycle Smoke and CVT!

Chris Ross
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 3:20 pm

Postby Chris Ross » Fri Oct 25, 2013 1:00 am


I did a full write up on how I setup my car in the F600 tech section.

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